Discovering the Schist Villages of the Lousã Mountains: Talasnal, Casal Novo & Chiqueiro

Welcome to Travel Portugal with Carla. As a passionate travel consultant who adores exploring the hidden gems of Portugal, I am thrilled to share my latest adventure in the enchanting Schist villages nestled within the captivating Lousã Mountains. These ancient villages, crafted from schist metamorphic rocks centuries ago, offer a mesmerizing journey into the heart of Portugal's rich history and cultural heritage.

Situated just a short 30 minute drive from the vibrant city of Coimbra, the Lousã valley is a picturesque region brimming with majestic castles, charming villages, and awe-inspiring hiking trails.

The Schist villages are divided into four distinct clusters, each with its own unique story to tell. From the rugged terrain of the Lousã Mountains to the tranquil waters of the Zêzere River, each village exudes a captivating charm that will leave you spellbound. Once abandoned, these villages have been lovingly restored through a government initiative launched in 2000, breathing new life into these historic settlements.

During my recent stay in Talasnal, we opted to drive up to the village for a more convenient experience with my little one in tow. We first stopped in for a coffee at "O Retalinho" because we were told they had a "pasteis da castahna" this is a chestnut pastry, known to this area, it was delicious and comes highly recommended with a coffee. Sit out on the back patio and enjoy the stunning views of the mountains that surround you.

While we initially aimed to dine at the renowned Ti Lena restaurant, we quickly realized the importance of making reservations well in advance. Instead, we savored the delectable local delicacy known as “Chanfana” at the cozy Taberna Montanhas do Amor Restaurant, a slow-roasted goat stew infused with the flavors of red wine. I cannot recommend this dish enough, especially when followed by a refreshing hike to explore the surrounding beauty. As we concluded our meal, our gracious host from “Casa do Livros” warmly welcomed us and escorted us to our traditional schist house. Stepping inside, we were greeted by a charming fireplace and a quaint patio that embraced the serene ambiance of the village.

Embarking on a leisurely stroll through the village, we embarked on the “Marigos walk,” a delightful 1.8 km loop from Talasnal that meanders past cascading waterfalls and lush levadas. Our explorations led us back to Talasnal village and we headed to “O Curral,” a quirky watering hole adorned with intriguing artifacts adorning the walls and ceiling. I won't spoil the surprise for you - you must witness its eccentric charm firsthand. Unwinding with a cheese and meat board accompanied by a glass of wine, we relished the tranquil evening in this idyllic spot.

HIKING

For those looking to explore the Lousã Mountains and the Schist villages, there are plenty of hiking trails to choose from. Whether you start at the Lousã castle and hike up to Talasnal or drive to the village and explore the surrounding area on foot, there are options for hikers of all levels. I highly recommend parking at the castle and hiking 2km up to Talasnal village. The trails are really well marked, familiarize yourself with what the signs mean , the signs can be on rocks, trees, or proper sign posts so look around when you get to a fork in the path.

Small loop (Highly recommend)

For a medium-length day-hike, consider following the circular route marked as PR2. It takes about 3 ⅕ hours and starts and ends at the Castle of Lousã. You can park at the castle, hike up to Talasnal , stay the night or have lunch at one of the restaurants and hike back to castle.

Big loop

If you’re a hardcore hiker or want to do a 2-day hike, I suggest doing a big loop. This combines the linear hike PR3 with the linear hike PR4. Together, it’s about 8 hours of hiking.

Marigo’s loop

This was a lovely little hike 1.8km loop which includes the village, it passes through streams and lush forest, we enjoyed this little circular loop from Talasnal.

TOURS

For those in Coimbra or Lousã without a car or seeking a more convenient option, the ideal solution is to join a tour. This tour encompasses hiking, a castle visit, and exploring several schist villages, along with the possibility of having lunch if desired. Booking a tour can be effortlessly done through the provided links. Opting for a tour has a lot of value due to the additional insights about the destination, learning unique facts, engaging with locals, and a stress-free approach to discovering the area.

Tours from Coimbra: Half day tour

Tour from Lousã: Half day tour or Full day tour

ACCOMMODATION: Talasnal

I highly recommend staying in an accommodation in the village of Talasnal, we booked our accommodation through booking.com, I have linked each accommodation for you to easily book these accommodations in Talasnal.

€€€-Casa Ti Tote (photo on left) or Casa do ti toninho - For those looking for a bit of luxury, Casa ti tote & Casa do ti toninho offers a deck with a hot tub and panoramic views of Lousa.

€€-Talasnal Casa do Cascao-Stunning accommodation with patio

€-Casa da Carolina or Casa do Livros- the best budget friendly accommodation in Talasnal

TRANSPORTATION

My first choice would be to rent a car if you don’t already have one, we always use Zest car rental when we are travelling , they are great and straight forward, no hassle, honest car rental company!

Take a tour- a lot of people make Coimbra their home base, there is no need to rent a car have your tour guide pick you up at your desired pickup location and take you on a  Half day tour or Full day tour to the mountains and through the schist villages including Talasnal.

You have the option to either park at Lousã castle and walk up, or, like us, if you have a lot of things to carry due to bringing our son and his equipment, you can park at Talasnal. Parking directly in the village allows you to begin your hike from there. Numerous maps are available to guide you to your desired destination.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL

You can travel here at anytime and it would be very magical, we went in June and the nights still got chilly enough for a fire, the shoulder season would be the best time to travel here but if your in Portugal I recommend anytime of year, however, the most ideal would be from April-November to get a little better weather and outside the rainy season.

My journey through Portugal has been greatly influenced by Talasnal and the schist villages in this region. I recommend you to embark on a voyage through time and nature in the Schist villages of the Lousã Mountains, where history, breathtaking landscapes, and excitement come together. By wandering through the captivating paths of Talasnal, you can fully experience the magnificent mountain scenery and discover the hidden treasures of this Portuguese gem. Get ready to be charmed by the allure and mysteries of one of Portugal's most captivating destinations.